The search for a more firm, luminous face, without signs of aging, is one of the leading demands in the skincare market. But one of the most neglected aspects in beauty rituals is precisely the essential one: cleansing. In the beauty routine an incorrect cleansing (or worse still, its absence) can invalidate all the subsequent steps leading to the use of serums and creams – by themselves very valid, but not performing well on skin that is not properly cleansed.
First of all, cleansing is a mandatory step for the well-being of all skin types. It is often considered necessary only as a complement to the removal of make-up on the skin – however all of the environmental pollutants, fine dust and smog are deposited on our skin during the day. Furthermore, our own skin, which in the epidermal layer carries out a cell renewal process, deposits on the external corneous layer the keratinized dead cells that have made their physiological journey from the basal layer of the epidermis and which must be removed to make room for new ones. Cleansing is thus necessary to remove these dead cells and offer more brightness to the skin. This improves the access of cosmetic active ingredients introduced with subsequent treatments.
How to best cleanse your face
To perform a correct process of removing and dissolving dirt that accumulates on the skin daily during the day, it is necessary to use specific detergents. Whereas in the past soap with a basic pH was used for cleansing in a non-specific way, today the market offers consumers a wide range of detergents that can be selected according to the skin type.
We have many options: classic detergents, based on non-aggressive surfactants, made with plant extracts, with physiological pH, without allergens and without perfumes. The cosmetics can be selected according to skin imperfections, depending on whether it is sensitive, oily, particularly dry or acne-prone skin. The cosmetic form is variable as well, from the so popular micellar waters to foaming cleansers, from purifying gels to cleansing scrubs, to the widely used cleansing mousses: thanks to the dispensing system they allow a liquid product to generate a pleasant to apply mousse, without using gas in the product.
For oily and acne-prone skin, the cosmetic market offers many cleansing possibilities compared to the past. The outdated concept of aggressive cleansing to remove sebum and impurities has now been overcome, and the choice falls on delicate ingredients that also have antimicrobial or sebum-regulating activity. This is to modulate the content and quantity of sebum on the skin without eliminating it completely – which would generate a “rebound” effect with greater stimulation of the sebaceous glands. Proper cleansing, associated coupled with the right choice of cosmetic products, is a valid tool for combating skin blemishes.
The trend of the moment is double cleansing, which involves the use of an oily detergent combined with a foamy detergent. The oily cleanser acts according to the “similar dissolves similar” principle by removing the lipophilic substances from the skin. The foamy detergent, on the other hand, is based on surfactants – substances with a double nature, in part with affinity to hydrophilic substances, in part to lipophilic substances – that are able to emulsify the fatty substances that make up dirt and remove them from the skin. This type of cleansing is particularly suitable for the evening beauty routine, when the accumulation of dirt on the skin is greater and the removal of make-up residues is also necessary. The correct sequence involves first using the oily detergent and then the foaming one, following by rinsing with warm water and using a soft towel to pat the skin. The oily cosmetic must be a specific product containing lipophilic substances selected for cleansing.
Double cleansing is not just a trend, it is actually an effective and gentle skin cleansing method, suitable for all skin types when done with the right products.
The fundamental steps for an excellent cleansing
Regardless of the type of cleansing selected, there are some simple guidelines to follow for a correct execution.
First of all, the selection of the correct water temperature: it is true that the thermal action favours the removal of dirt, but extreme temperatures can be particularly harmful for those with sensitive skin, so it is essential to use lukewarm water to cleanse the face.
One of the most frequent mistakes is to rub the face with excessive force while both cleaning and drying. The mechanical movement facilitates the distribution of the surfactant molecules on the skin to capture more dirt, but a high friction can be very aggressive, especially for senile and hypersensitive skins.
Finally, many people still do not recognize that the daily routine is fundamental: face cleansing both in the morning and in the evening is an essential step for the beauty routine and is critical for reducing the risk of skin irritation in the most sensitive skins.
The right amount of time must be dedicated to cleansing, as it is important for the skin well-being and to prevent irritation and the manifestations of premature aging signs. Cleansing certainly represents a moment of well-being and pleasure in caring for your skin.